Boldly traveling to new places, doing new things, and finding frogs along the way.

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Weekend 080611 to 080711




When I hiked out I called my coworker, Flannel, to see what she was up to.  She and her twin were in Bishop, and they directed me to a place where they had gone swimming/bathing.  It’s the first time I’ve bathed in a stream!  Pretty fun (but cold) actually.  I then met up with Flannel and her sister (who works in Mammoth and is as biology-nerdy as the rest of us) and we went and saw Cowboys and Aliens in the two-scene movie theater in Bishop.  It was a funny movie – good for classic entertainment value.  We then met up with the Guide (Flannel’s partner) who also hiked out today, and had some Mexican food (not as good as Tucson’s food).  While there, we met up with one of the trail crew guys, who happens to be the boyfriend of my new partner.  He was at the Rae Lakes cabin while I was there, and is a top-notch guy.  Hikes fast for long distances, knows how to fix pretty much anything (chainsaws, solar panels, cars, etc) climbs, rappels, and has a desire to buy land and farm a few acres.  Pretty cool.  He knows the east side really well, and showed us all to a place where we could camp for free near this water canal area. 

The next day we decided to hike around the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest, where the oldest known trees in the world are found – over 4000 years old.  We took a 4.5 mile nature trail and admired the really neat old trees, which grow in the most fantastic formations and configurations.  Really quite cool.  Afterwards we went to a local bakery/sandwich place for lunch (delicious homemade bread and BLTs!).  There we met up with my new partner (no pseudonym yet) who is a really energetic, happy, cute girl with black curly hair.  I think it will be as awesome working with her as it was with the Musician.  We putzed around town until dinner time when we went to a really good Thai restaurant before going to another free camping area (thanks to my partner’s boyfriend). 

Today we have been hanging out in a coffee shop all morning, getting our personal business done.  My partner and her boyfriend went to go climbing.  The twins are going around town before Flannel has to drive her sister back to Mammoth.  The Guide and I may hang out in town – I need to do some shopping and laundry.  We plan to all meet up tonight at another camping spot (near some hot springs I believe!) and I hike back up tomorrow.  I am planning on staying in the mountains through the next weekend, so my next post will not be until the first few days of September.

Stint 2 7/26/2011 to 08/05/11



I actually kept a journal during this last stint, but forgot it in my car (which is parked behind a building across the street right now and I don’t want to go get it), so here’s hoping I remember everything. 

I drove around to the east side of the Sierras on the 25th of June – an  easy 6 hour drive – got some food at a grocery store in Lone Pine.  As I passed through Independence to drive up to the Onion Valley Trailhead I passed 4 hitchhikers looking to also go to Onion Valley.  I had heard of these people – people who hike the Pacific Crest Trail (PCTers) which goes from the Mexican border to the Canada border and/or people hiking the John Muir Trail (JMTers) which goes from Yosemite to Mt. Whitney (I believe).  These people hike for days on end before going out to certain trailheads, hitchhiking into town to get supplies, hitchhiking to go back to the trailhead, and beginning their hike again.  I only had room for one, which worked out since the car behind me picked up the other 3.  I ended up camping with these four in Onion Valley too, but left for Kearsarge pass before most of them woke up.  My first experience with PCTers!  They all seemed young – probably in their early 20s – and a little unprepared foodwise – I don’t see how they could have packed enough food/calories to hike the next 10 days, and they also seemed aghast at hiking more than 10 miles a day, even after hiking 800 miles in the past 3 months.  Alas – it was nice to camp with others instead of by myself in any case.

On 7/26/2011 I hiked the 14-15 mile trip in ~9.5 hours, which included going over Kearsarge Pass (easy), Glenn Pass (not as bad as I’d thought it would be, despite the snow), stopping by the Rae Lakes Ranger Station to see if some supplies had come in (they hadn’t) and then going to Sixty Lakes.  Once there I met up with my partner, the Musician, who had been there already for the past 4 days, hiking around the Sierras with his girlfriend and then meeting up with some former coworkers/friends who were doing a survey in another basin. 

Our duties for the next two weeks were to check the Cotter Lake and SL-10 Lake nets at the beginning and end of the workweek, pull the Fjord Lake winter nets, set the Fjord Lake summer nets, check the Tulip Lake and SL-5 Lake nets once, electrofish as much as possible in between, and do frog surveys of 4-5 lakes. 

7/27/2011            Checked Cotter and SL-10 and electrofished like crazy

7/28/2011            Pulled out Fjord winter nets, which were horribly tattered and tangled around trees and rocks at the bottom of the lake.  We think an avalanche during the winter/spring brought a lot of trees into the lake and onto some of our nets – we lost a few to the trees and big holes had to be ripped into others in order to pull them out.  We then put in most of the summer nets (but not the ones that needed to be set up where there was still snow on the bank). 

7/29/2011            Checked Tulip Lake nets.  With three nets to go (out of 43) it began to look like rain.  Since we hadn’t secured any of our things at camp (no rainfly on screen tent, some things were out that should not get wet), the Musician and I went back to rainproof things and have lunch.  And just in time, it began to pour.  There is nothing like sitting in a dry screen tent while it is pouring rain in the Sierra Nevadas – hail, thunder, lightning.  To our surprise, we then got visitors in the form of Roland Knapp and Neal (Roland’s field assistant).  Roland is well known for his work in the Sierras, including surveying every (literally) lake in the Park for the presence/absence of non-native fish as well as mountain yellow-legged frogs.  He has been involved with exotic fish removal in the mountain lakes as well as working with frog researchers in studying the Mt. yellow-legged frog’s response (and decline) due to chytrid fungus.  It was like meeting a celebrity.  The Musician had worked with Roland before, so he and Roland talked (with little input from Neal or me) for the duration of the rain storm (maybe 4 hours?).  We then parted ways, with Roland hoping that the next day would be less rainy so he could do frog surveys, and we going to SL-5 Lake to check those nets.  We ended up finding a lot of fish (~36) in SL-5, and piled them all on a rock to throw into a deeper part of a different lake (SL-5 is not deep).  A delicious pile of 1-6 day old dead fish.  Yum

7/30/2011            The Musician and I electrofished the heck out of the two inlets and one outlet of Cotter lake, shocking a whopping zero fish.  It rained again. 

7/31/2011            We checked the Fjord Lake nets – I don’t remember catching that many – I think less than 10.  We also put in more Fjord Lake nets.  It got stormy again around noon, and we got out of the lake to wait out the storm.  Along our way back to the screen tent, we ran into two guys from the next basin over (Rae Lakes) who were working on the new Rae Lakes Ranger Station.  They had the day off and decided to meet their neighbors!  We invited them into the screen tent and talked for a good hour or two until the worst of the rain was over.  The Musician and I then ventured out and ran into Roland and Neal, who were doing frog surveys again.  Roland mentioned that he had seen one of the missing Fjord winter nets floating in Fjord – with his directions and intell, we went back to Fjord and pulled out the pieces of one of the missing nets – good to have it out of the lake, but completely un-mendable. 

8/1/2011              I realized with dismay that it was my brother’s birthday, and I had no way (and had not pre-planned a way) of saying happy birthday to him.  We checked the Cotter and SL-10 nets again – not many fish, but we did get a baby bird, though it was hard to tell if the bird had died and its body drifted into our net or if it had died because of the net – the bird was not tangled in the net at all, to my understanding.  We then decided to check the SL-5 nets again since that lake had so many fish earlier in the week.  24 fish!  While checking SL-5 it began to hail.  When it seemed to end, we pulled out an SL5-net that needed some mending, and while mending it began to hail and rain even harder.  There were some periods of sitting out the hail under some trees, but I really wanted to finish mending and set the net, since that lake caught so many fish all the time.  When we finished the Musician and I were completely soaked and glad to get back to camp, until the Musician realized that the hail had split open the rainfly of his tent and allowed the rain to partially soak most of his stuff.  We couldn’t wait for the rain to finish after that so he could dry out his stuff before night (which happened, thank goodness). 

The Musician and I had discussed and determined that he should hike out on Tuesday, the 2nd, while I would stay in until Friday.  One reason behind this is that the Musician was switching over to the Inventory and Monitoring crew the following week and had a lot of comp time from the frog job to use up.  The main reason, though, was because he had gotten some sort of bug bite (?? we think) the previous week that was causing localized pain and a rash, neither of which was getting any better, that the Musician and I both decided should be seen by a doctor before his new job started. 

It was weird waking up on the 2nd to have the Musician already gone (early riser!).  I spent the day mending Fjord winter nets (horrible condition) and was a little weirded out going to bed that night, mainly because there were two guys camping at a nearby lake.  The next day I mended more nets and then did a few frog surveys out the Basin on my way to the trail crew’s camp, where I had been invited over for dinner.  The trail crew is supposed to get their cabin building supplies and weekly food every Tuesday, but had not received it by the time I arrived (Wednesday 6:15pm).  However, there was a search and rescue operation (SAR) going on, and a helicopter was coming by to pick up the Rae Lakes backcountry ranger, Dario, who is totally awesome, to help out with the search.  When the helicopter came, it also dropped off the trail crew’s food (but not the gasoline they needed to power their generator to do anything on the cabin).  For dinner we had homemade dutch oven lasagna, garlic bread warmed by the fire, green salad with tomato and avocado, and chocolate cake (only slightly burnt).  Delicious.  I camped there that night. 

On the 4th I had cereal with milk for breakfast!  Delicious.  Did more frog surveys on my way back to camp, mended nets, and at the end of the day hiked back to the trail crew camp at Rae Lakes (felt safer there) for dinner and to sleep.  The SAR had found the missing hiker, no problem, in part (we think) because of some excellent advice on where to look by one of the trail crew guys, who had met the missing hiker on a few previous occasions.  Two of the trail crew guys had hiked 26 miles that day to meet up with a mule packer to get some gasoline.  Mid-afternoon the cabin crew finally got their cabin supplies flown into them (including one of the cabin doors, which looked awesome).  The Sixty Lakes supplies also came in, so I will stop by and bring them back on Monday.

Dinner was steak, salad, noodles, corn, with rice-crispy treats for dessert.  Yum.  Breakfast was breakfast burritos with fried potatoes, onions, eggs, and sausage, downed with orange juice.  Yum.  I hiked out in 6.5 hours, reporting to the ranger two backpackers with dogs (no dogs in the Park!) along the way.  Good times.

I love my job.  I love waking up each morning, knowing that I will be doing something outside, in an awesome place, with awesome scenery.  I love the people that I work with and meet along the way.  I love that I can go for 10 days without a shower, wearing two pairs of pants and two shirts throughout those 10 days, and no one cares.  Right now I hope I am able (and given the chance) to do this job again next summer, because it is awesome. 

Monday, July 25, 2011

Weekend 2: July 23-25 2011



I am feeling a little odd – apprehensive? Scared? – today as I leave to drive around to the east side of the Sierras, where I will hike back up to Sixty Lakes Basin tomorrow.  I think it is in part because it will be the first time I have camped alone (tonight) and the first time  I will hike 16+ miles alone.  Probably most of it has to do with all the snow on the mountain passes, and snow scares me. 

This past weekend was lots of fun.  This time we are staying in a “dorm,” which is really a woman’s house that has 3 extra bedrooms with two beds in each.  The woman has an extensive dvd collection, and the first day back we spent the entire day vegging out and watching movies.  The woman also stocks her refrigerator for her dorm guests, so we didn’t have to buy any food.  Movies and food – doesn’t get much better than that.  In the dorm was me, the Punster, and the two girls from the girl/girl group.  One of the girls is from Washington and has been a rafting Guide in the past – going down rivers all over Washington and going down the Grand Canyon at least once.  She went to one of the river trip places in Three Rivers and managed to go on a rafting trip this weekend for free in exchange for her helping guide the raft – pretty cool.  The other girl is from California and has a twin sister who also does field work type of stuff.  She is always super energetic and happy to be out hiking, or really doing anything, and is really fun to be around.  She is known for the flannel shirt that she wears, as well as the one piece flannel outfit that she recently bought at Goodwill.  J

The Punster, Flannel, and I went to the Visalia Farmer’s Market again on Saturday and did some random odds and ends around town.  When we got back to the Park, we met up with the Guide and we all went to a swimming hole recommended by my boss to go find western pond turtles.  He had also given us snorkeling gear, and though the water was freezing, we had a lot of fun and found two turtles!  One the way back we stopped briefly at a post office built in the early 1900s.

Yesterday Flannel, the Guide, and I went to do touristy things in Sequoia National Park.  We took a tour of Crystal Cave (very awesome), hiked up to Moro Rock (large rock with some 800 stairs to climb to get to the top), to Bobcat Point (amazing view of the valley below), Crescent Meadow (mountain meadow), Tharp’s Log (where a guy named Tharp built a hope out of a hollowed out fallen sequoia), the Senate (a bunch of giant sequoias all in one place), the President (one big tree), and finally the Giant Sherman Tree (the largest tree in the world by volume).  Along the way we saw at least two bears (we think we saw the same one twice) and a weasel.  One of the bears we saw when a bunch of tourists started acting really excited on the trail – the whole family, who we think were from out of the country – jumped up on a fallen log and excitedly started taking photos.  To my amazement a bear popped out of the ferns about 20 feet ahead and began meandering its way toward us!  Flannel told us, and the tourists, that this was bad – bears should not feel okay with being near people, because then the bear becomes a “problem bear.”  As a result, we needed to haze the bear.  I don’t know if the tourists understood us or not, but they certainly acted as if they hadn’t heard us.  At this point the bear was about 6 feet from the tourists on their log.  Flannel yelled at the bear and the Guide and I threw sticks at it until the bear ran away.  The tourists scowled at us – we had obviously ruined their day by scaring away the bear that had been so close.  Sigh

All in all, we had a great day being tourists. 

As I said before, today I am driving to the east side where I will camp somewhere near Onion Valley and start hiking up Kearsarge Pass.  I will make a brief stop at the Rae Lakes Ranger Station, and, depending on the time, camp there or continue on to Sixty Lakes Basin.  Should be fun!  I also recently bought a new camera battery, so hopefully I can take more photos without fear that they will die mid stint.  Hopefully I will get another post out after this next stint in 11 days!

Saturday, July 23, 2011

SEKI Stint 1: 12 July to 21 July 2011 : Returning

Photos 

At the end of the first stint three members of our group (the Musician, Punster, and El Freezin) decided to take a different way back to the trailhead, while my boss and I hiked out the same way – kindof.  My boss had never taken the basin way out (follow the basin down until it meets with the trail) and so we took that way, passing all the lakes of the basin and some beautiful waterfalls, and cliffs, along the way.  We did 14 miles the first day, and 8 the second, doing in 1.5 days on the way back what had taken 2.5 to do going up.  Along the way we came across another alligator lizard and a garter snake and were warned of, but never saw, a bear in the campground.  My boss’s family met him at the trailhead, and my coworkers were already at the car, so we split ways from my boss, and my coworkers and I drove back to the SEKI headquarters. 

I am still a little stunned that I have this job for the next 2.5 months.  The scenery is gorgeous, the work is awesome, and the people are lots of fun.  The hikes out of the backcountry to resupply fresh produce (if I so choose) are a little long, but they will only result in making me a stronger hiker, which I look forward to.  I think I am falling in love with the Sierras, which I had not anticipated doing, and look forward to my second stint, which begins next Tuesday. 

SEKI Stint 1: 12 July to 21 July 2011 : The Work



Our work at Sixty Lakes Basin began with mending the summer gill nets from 2010 from the five lakes SEKI is currently working at restoring.  Dozens of nets, some with very large holes, were mended to the point that our backs ached – but I really don’t think any of us minded, especially when the Musician brought out his mp3 player with speakers!  When all the nets were mended (two days later) we went to the first of our lakes and got trained in how to pull in nets (in this case, the nets that had been in the lakes all winter) and set out the newly mended nets.  This involved getting into really warm clothes (the lakes are very cold!), then into waders, fins,  and a personal floatation device (life vest) and sitting in fly-fisherman’s tube – inflated on three sides with a seat and a strap to keep you from falling out the front side.  The person in the tube would then paddle around the lake and bring in the old nets and put out the new ones, while the people on the bank would pick out the fish stuck in the net and mend the winter nets.  The worst part was picking out the fish – most of which were probably from the early winter, based on their condition.  After the first fish I just had to stop thinking about the nastiness of what I was picking out and just do it. The decayed fishy smell would get on your hands and stay the rest of the day, despite trying to rub the smell off using sand in the water and snow.    

Our boss also taught the Musician and I how to electrofish, which involves sending out a low current of electricity through the water that stuns the fish long enough for the non-electrofisher to nab the fish with a net.  We do this in the streams that run between the lakes with the gill nets, to ensure that no fish escapes!  Electrofishing was also quite fun – I will enjoy doing that quite a bit. 

The last thing we were taught was how to do frog surveys.  One of the reasons the lakes are being restored (ie, the non-native fish are being removed) is because the fish eat the eggs, larvae, and frogs of mountain yellow legged frogs as well as the aquatic invertebrates that the frogs need to eat.  Lakes with fish have no frogs and very few aquatic insects.  In the places where the lakes are being restored the fish are small and starving – you would need a couple dozen to even think of making a meal of them.  One of the biggest outcries from the public about this project is that people are concerned that their fishing lakes will be affected; these people don’t realize that the lakes that are being targeted are ones that no one would ever fish from due to the fish being so small.  

Anyway – frog surveys.  These were fun to learn how to do, in part because we were actually looking for frogs (always a favorite of mine) but also because SEKI’s frog survey techniques were so different from the ones I am used to back home – it is always fun to learn new methods, especially when they relate to frogs.  When we were trained, there was still a considerable amount of snow and ice in and around the lake we were at; probably too cold for frogs to be out.  It will be interesting to see if there are more frogs out when the ice and snow thaws. 

SEKI Stint 1: 12 July to 21 July 2011 : The People



My coworkers are, simply put, very awesome and fun to be around.  I have no problem working with any of them and would have been fine being paired with any of them – it is quite a tribute to my boss that he hired such awesome people. 

My partner for the month of July is a field tech/Musician from Mammoth who is a crazy-fast hiker and enthusiastic about exploring the Sierras on foot and ski.  He at first struck me as a serious dude, but has a dry sense of humor that comes out with the best comments at times – I think we will get along just fine.  He also knows his aquatic insects and wildflowers really well, which is fun.  He plays the banjo (and mandolin!) and talks music with my boss.  He had the foresight to bring out speakers with his mp3 player, and thus we often got to mend gill nets to music. 

The “boy” of the boy/girl team is a highly talented Punster who can turn almost any sentence to have a different meaning – it is quite humorous and keeps us all on our toes.  He is also an avid hiker (and fast!) and spends part of the year working at Antarctica (Big Red!), which I think is cool (no pun intended).  The Punster has hiked the Appalachian trail and has lots of stories about his time on the trail, in Antarctica, and about growing up – sometimes we don’t know which ones to believe (for instance, he has no music preference and has never owned a CD) – but dinner times at Sixty Lakes were always lively and fun. 

The “girl” of the boy/girl team has been a backcountry ranger for both Denali National Park and Death Valley National Park and has a slew of other professions in between.  She has been a seasonal employee for so long that she now travels from job to job with all her possessions in a small trailer towed behind her car.  These possessions include a dirt-bike and mountain bike, which is pretty cool.  Due to a back-story I will not explain here, her nickname around camp was “El Freezin.”  El Freezin brought a Cosmopolitan magazine and toe nail polish to camp in an attempt to get a rise out of our boss; on the first night she and I sat down and painted our toes while reading Cosmo articles.  Her plan to wig out our boss did not work; he barely looked twice and thought nothing was odd. The Cosmo, in fact, became an almost prized possession in camp, with everyone reading from it throughout the week, especially at dinner time where ridiculous articles and stories would be read out loud and giggled at.  In the magazine was a full page photo of Justin Timberlake (JT!), which we ended up ripping out and posting at Snaggletooth Boomer.  Later on in the week El Freezin put Vicks under her nose to help against the fish smell and then put some dirt on the Vicks, resulting in a pseudo-mustache.   She got me to do the same, and we were finally successful at getting a reaction from our boss, who thought we were ridiculous and funny at the same time.  We pretended we were “dudes” for the next couple of hours, saying “dude” a lot and saying that “we liked sports.”  Doesn’t every guy talk like that?  J 

While it was really nice to have another girl in camp, it was especially awesome that it was El Freezin – she and I ended up talking (and laughing) a lot throughout the week and, I think, becoming close in the way that constant companionship in the backcountry can bring.  One of the major drawbacks of this job is that you make such close connections with the people in the first few weeks, and then only get to see most of these people the rest of the summer through careful planning ahead of time to meet up on the weekends, since there is no phone or internet contact while we are in the back country. 

The boss who came to Sixty Lakes is a guy who is finishing his master’s thesis on turtles while working at SEKI and supporting his wife and young son.  He is an excellent leader – very understanding with me while hiking up, very patient while teaching me and the Musician different knots that are necessary for tying gill nets and screen tents down, and very fun to be around on our off time.  He is very passionate in his love of the job and the Sierras and yet is also very passionate in his love of his family – you can tell how much he loves being in the backcountry and working toward restoring the high elevation lakes and you can also tell that he misses his family quite a bit by being up there.  I can only hope that someday I meet someone who will think and talk about me and my (future) kids in the same way that he does about his wife and son.  While there is much more about my boss than this (including being very funny) these are the things that struck me most about him.